Saturday – March 8, 2008
0950 – Depart Mazatlan for Tenacatita via La Cruz (145 miles south); skies clear; weather report indicates winds and seas are supposed to be from the NW. It’s good to be underway again.
1600 – Motoring with a slight breeze on the nose; waves from the SW. Boat performing well and we need to get our sea legs back after so much time at the dock. Plan 3 hour watches.
Sunday – March 9, 2008
0230 – Julie wakes me from my off watch; she is concerned about our depth becoming suddenly shallow; I recheck the charts and we are in 180 feet of water about 10 miles off shore. I had certainly run into varying depths before and figured it was seaweed or a school of fish (JAKE thinks it might be a thermocline layer). None-the-less, I had a nagging sense in the base of my brain because Mexican charts are notoriously outdated. While it’s nostalgic to look at a chart and see neatly printed in the datum notes “from surveys collected by the U.S.S. Ranger 1890 to 1894,” the nostalgia quickly dissipates when you’re depending on the datum for navigational purposes; running aground is always a bummer. The oldest datum record we’ve used so far is 1854 – still, we’re using charts that are 150 years old overlaid with modern, pinpoint, GPS technology and the hydrographic surveys are only off by several miles … that’s impressive.
At the time, we were between Isla Isabela and the “Marias” (Isla Marie Madre, Isla Maria Magdalena and Isla Maria Cleofas). Isla Isabella (on the port side) is a bird sanctuary and many if not most cruisers crossing from Baja, or Mazatlan stop here. We’re not going to stop here because as unspoiled a delight Isla Isabella is, it’s dark, the anchorage is rocky and shallow and dangerous in south winds. On the starboard side are the three Marias. The Marias are named after Mary, the mother of Jesus, Mary Magdalene, and Mary, the wife of Cleopas. Maria Madre is a penal colony. The datum note states “Isla Marias are reported 3 miles farther East and Isla Isabela 1 3/4 miles farther SW than shown on the chart. The reported position cannot be reconciled with existing hydrography.” Local knowledge told us to give the Marias a wide berth, as the Mexican federalies do not suffer the curious cruiser. It seems contrary to name a penal colony after the mother of Jesus, but I supposed the island was named not knowing what future use it might have. As if to accentuate our position (whether in life or nautically),
Julie pointed out the southern cross constellation (the night sky was full of stars, but this constelation was so clear … so distinct). I had never seen it before, let it alone so clearly, but there it was, low on the horizon and tipped on its side with an aura behind it. There must’ve been some significance (certainly beyond my powers of comprehension) that the southern cross appeared in the sky at a time when we were passing close to a penal colony named Islas Maria Madre (and her sister islands Magdelena and Cleopas).
1430 – arrive La Cruz and anchor next to BEYOND REASON. Skies clear and wind out of the west. Anchorage is choppy, but the anchor bites and we dinghy over for early cocktails and dinner. Engine hours 79.9; motored 28 hours; used 3/8 tank of diesel (16.5 gallons) … burning 1/2 gallon/hour.
Monday – March 10, 2008
0815 – Clear skies, warm and bay winds out of the west. Up anchor and head east into the bay of Nuevo Vallarta for fuel. 1000 - arrive Paradise Village, Nuevo Vallarta, no fuel docks.
1045 - Enter Puerto Vallarta. Give supplies (instant coffee and coco) to LIBERTY, who is making the puddle jump tomorrow.
1200 – fuel up (19 gallons including 2.5 gallons for gerry can; 83 hours on engine (32 since Mazatlan). Head west out the bay past Yelapa, Cabo Corrianties (Cape of Currents) and then make our course south for Chamala and Tenacatita. No wind and calm seas.
Tuesday – March 11, 2008
0930 – Arrive Tenacatita. A bit of a tricky entrance in that it looks like you make a straight shot across the bay, but there are shallows and a shipwreck to foul the keel. Drop the hook and JAKE dinghies over to meet us. It’s been a while since we’ve seen them and they are tan and healthy looking. We launch our dinghy and put up Julie’s shade canopy. Julie down for a nap and I dive to inspect the boat. Fresh water shower in the cockpit. Dinner and Soprano’s with JAKE.
Wednesday – March 13, 2008
0930 – Anchored out at Tenacatita – Jungle tour with JAKE. It’s not the full jungle tour with snakes, crocodiles and Bogie, but it’s a lot like one. We all pile into JAKEs dinghy for our first challenge … that of crossing the bar. The river starts around the corner of the bay after crossing some very shallow entrance water (the bar). Jake times it just right and gives the engine just enough throttle (to keep us on top), as the waves picks up the dinghy and propels us just inches over the jagged rocks and into a calm, palm tree lined lagoon. Quickly the lagoon narrows as the river begins its torturous course; still wide at this point, the river has a narrow channel, which Jake navigates expertly. The shore is invisible hidden within the thick mangrove trees and still water. Effortlessly, we glide up the center of the channel, which is punctuated by snowy white egrets, perched precarioulsy on slim mangrove branches extended out over the water, patiently waiting for a fish to rise. The river narrows until it is barely wide enough for two dinghies abreast; the mangroves form a thick canopy that blocks out the sun with fat green leaves and long, thick roots that decend straight from overhead branches into the river beside us. Our speed is so slow we barely leave a ripple in the water; one side the shore is obliterated by the tangle of mangrove roots and swamp moss while the other shore rises to a dry knoll where four-foot tall ant hills dare the more cavilier to take a closer look. After about an hour of ghosting up this tributary to the unknown (and trying to scare each other with the old snake fell out of the tree routine) the jungle river opens into a small lagoon. We secure the dinghy and stroll up to the small village. We take a long beach walk, lunch at the Palapa (a resturant on the beach), buy a few supplies, dinghy back through the mangrove jungle, into the palm tree lined lagoon, across the surf and back to the boat for an afternoon nap. Dinner and Sopranos with JAKE and skippers meeting for the cruise to Bahia Navidad tomorrow.
Thursday – March 13, 2008
0815 – Up anchor from Tenacatita. Clear skies and no wind; somewhat of a marine layer (the first I think we’ve seen down here) and big rollers. Motor to Bahia Navidad (about three hours away). While Bahia Navidad is a fairly large the lagoon, (Laguna de La Navidad), where all the services are offered, it is a little trouble-some to enter. The entrance, indeed the lagoon is large enough, it just has a narrow channel that is poorly marked. The lagoon is frought with shoals and the breakwater is awash with a high tide. We follow JAKE in and arrive off the fuel dock about 1045; wait for about an hour while a big power boat refuels. We refuel; 80 liters (20 gallons = $57); engine hours 109 (average about .77 gallons/hour … fuel consumption up from PV).
1230 – drop anchor in seven feet of water (lots of other boats around). Go into town (Barra) for a beer and burrito and a little exploring. I take my computer in as it shut down on us in Mazatlan and the local cruiser guru there couldn’t fix it; Back to the boat and over to JAKE’s for dinner.
Bahia Navidad holding ground is mud and weeds and notorious for boats dragging their anchors when the afternoon winds come up. Dinghies are held at the ready and cruisers leave their keys in the vessels ignitions so when the errant boat does break free it can be started and re-anchored; in opposition to this passive intervention, dinghies are scrambled and decend on the drifting boat to secure it (much like the calvary coming to the rescue).
1800 - There is some traffic on the VHF about a boat breaking free. Jake and I are in the cockpit of his boat and it sounds like their talking about ITCHEN (anchored right behind JAKE). We watch closely but are unable to tell if the boat is drifting. Caution gets the better of us and we quick dinghy over to ITCHEN just as she really does break free (we were about three feet from a collision which would have damaged my wind-vane steering and scratched the hull of another boat). We motor out and circle around behind the fleet and drop the hook, but it doesn’t set; up anchor again and motor to another spot, drop the hook and again it doesn’t set; third time is a charm – hook, set, match … it’s over and ITCHEN is secured for the night.
Friday – March 14, 2008
Bahia Navidad – Wake to the lilt of the “French baker” on the VHF. Say what you will about the French but they have a beautiful language. The French baker is an honest to goodness French baker. He moved to Barra some years ago and was apparently shut out by the local community. He discovered the cruisers and started peddling his pastries to them, with a good deal of success. He gets up early to make his morning delights and then has a panga take him into the lagoon. Over his hand held VHF he starts marketing his wares. With a French accent “Hello … this is the French baker. I am entering the harbor now. One hears traffic on the VHF ordering a variety of sweets, rolls and breads; then; “Hello … this is the French baker. I’m leaving the harbor now and entering the lagoon. Who would like some croissants? JAKE … JAKE would you like a croissant? ITCHEN, I have fresh Danish … for you. The calls continue to go out … but all is wrapped up in about 20 minutes. It is a delightful and refreshing interchange heard on what is usually a very dry and somber network.
Into to town and secure the dinghy at the local cruiser friendly hotel; The Sands. They have a pool, bar, restaurant, wi-fi connection and welcome cruisers. Checked in and checked out with the local Port Captain. Took a bus ride to Melaque about 20 miles away. Melaque is a little bigger town than Barra and has an ATM, several butchers and multiple Mercado’s (kind of super convenience stores). Back to Barra, pick up the computer (completely fixed and running faster than ever for only $40.00!).
Saturday – March 15, 2008
0700 – Up anchor; clear skies and calm seas. Motor north to Bahia Careyes. We were looking to hook up with SAUCY LADY. Hail several times on 16 and 22 without response. Bahia Careyes looks inviting enough on a chart, but in actuality it has large breakers at the entrance with some hidden shoals and the anchorage is not protected at all. There is an old Club Med dock, but from out vantage point it wasn’t visible. Since SAUCY LADY wasn’t there we decided to bag it and continue heading north, until we found an anchorage we liked. Wind comes up on the beam so we raise our brand new shiny sails and easily do 7 knots (JAKE has to motor to keep up with us).
1400 – Bahia Chamala – drop anchor onto solid rock holding ground. Wait around to see if something miraculous will happen; have lunch, decide no miracles will happen at this anchorage and head to the north end of the bay.
1700 – Drop anchor in sand; good holding ground. Engine hours 118.6; estimate using 5.5 gallons = .6 gallons/hour. Change water tank = 44 gallons in seven days. Go for a swim and flood the porta-boat to see if it’ll float, then bail it out. Fresh water shower in the cockpit with the spray bottle (it works ok)
Sunday – March 16, 2008
0700 - Depart Chamala; skies clear, seas calm, no wind; waves NW at five feet.
1000 – Pass through hundreds and hundreds of sea turtles. The sea was absolutely calm and the turtles looked liked leather hats strewn all over the water. Julie stood on the bow, taking pictures, directing me from one turtle to the next. Some tolerated the boats approach; others dove in last minute panic and confusion. They all appeared to be napping, though I don’t know how as their heads were under water. Julie saw the famous albino turtle and urgently directed me to it. I motored up cautiously only to find that the albino turtle was a dead turtle, belly up and bleached white by the sun.
1230 – Raise the main and let out the jib; sail for 2 hours - 13 nm made good at 6.5 – 7 knots. Bypass Bahia Ipala due to strong NW winds forecast for next 12-24 hours.
1730 – Round Cabo Corrientas, Bahia Bandarras.
2130 – Drop the hook in La Cruz harbor. Engine hours 132.3 (used another 5.5 gallons = .38 gallons/hour). On approaching La Cruz there were several very bright lights in the harbor; I had no idea what they were (drilling rigs, dredging barges?). I radioed the La Cruz fleet for information on these and local conditions in the anchorage. The bright lights were three tuna boats, big tuna boats, that had come in for the night and turned all there bright, halogen, deck lights on (presumably to prevent thefts).
Monday – March 17, 2008
La Cruz Anchorage lay day – took bus into PV with JAKE. Did a little provisioning. Back to the boats; dinner and Soprano’s.
Tuesday – March 18, 2008
La Cruz Anchorage – Wind steady at 15 – 20 knots with gusts to 33 knots; many boats heading into the marina. MANDALAY (55’ Maple Leaf pilot house) next to JAKE starts to drag anchor. Jake is unable to clear him and the anchor rodes get tangled. As luck would have it MANDALAY’s anchor slid up JAKE’s chain where it was easily freed. MANDALAY had transmission problems and was unable to get any control of the boat. Once he was freed from JAKE, we watched him drift far into the bay, but not without snagging the anchor rode of a 45’ Hattaras and dragging him for a ways. JAKE in the meantime had to reset his anchor, which proved unsuccessful until he added a danforth in front of the CQR … it held firm and fast then!
1300 – Heard from SAUCY LADY via the vhf; they were in PV and had secured a slip for us in the marina. We discussed going into the marina with JAKE, as we were both headed there eventually; we needed water (at some point) and JAKE was leaving the boat at Marina Vallarta while they took a short trip to Seattle (we would boat/cat sit for them while they were gone). JAKE decided to stay in La Cruz for a few more days and we decided to take the slip; a) for water; 2) because SAUCY LADY had gone to considerable effort; and, c) we were eventually headed there anyway.
1530 – Arrive Marina Vallarta; SAUCY LADY (36’ Westerly) there to help us tie. We check in with the Port Captain via VHF. Good reunion with SAUCY LADY. Roy and Winona (masters of SAUCY LADY) have been cruising since 1999; I knew them from the yacht club in Tacoma. Beginning in ’99, they sailed down the coast and did the Baja, cruised Mexico, and Central America and then further south to Ecuador. From Ecuador they explored all over South America (by land) and sailed to the Galapagos (600 miles east). On this night they celebrated they 49th wedding anniversary and we got to go to dinner with them. Engine hours 135.
Wednesday – March 19, 2008
Marina Vallarta – Explore town with SAUCY LADY; took us to the Cathedral where a huge, famous sculpture/carving of the risen Christ was cut from a single piece of wood(Cedar); went to a Tequilaria … a micro distillery that make hundreds of kinds of tequila including a variety of liqueurs (coffee, orange, raspberry, chocolate, amaretto, etc). Tequila is made from the Guava plant and must be made in the district of Tequila, Mexico in order to be bear the name Tequila (much like champagne and the French), also 51% of the tequila must be from the Guava plant in order to be called Tequila, but the best Tequila is 100% Guava plant; and, we learned that tequila more that two or three years old is deteriorating because it’s losing it alcohol content. There are over 300 distilleries in Mexico, but only two export,as they are the only distilleries capable of making tequila in quantities large enough for export. We go to an older part of PV called Pitelle (pronounced PTL) and walk … try to walk … across the swinging rope bridges, visit the street vendors, walk along the malecon and have lunch. The buses are like those anywhere in Mexico (some new, some very personalized by their drivers and some very old). We’re finding that each Mexican city seems to have it’s own little cultural deviation. In Mazatlan it was the Pulmonia’s and in PV it is live entertainment on the buses. A man, or perhaps a man and his son, who may, or may not have a guitar as a accompaniment, get on the bus and start to sing, as a duo, a single or a capella, pianissimo, sometimes off-key but always, always with a great deal of enthusiasm. They entertain for a stop or two, pass the hat and then get off, presumably to wait for the next bus to roll up. We return to the boat to fix the stove (the oven wasn’t lighting off, so I sanded the thermocouple and cleaned the stove nipples); helped SAUCY LADY up the mast where Roy installed a Tri-color masthead light.
Thursday – Friday, March 20- April 4, 2008
Marina Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta – Lay Days, slip B-10. Every morning, just after zero-dark-thirty, the charter fishing fleet crews arrive. They wake the entire marina with their boisterous conversation and the deep rumble of diesel engines as ignitions unalterably start the day. Had breakfast, lunch and dinners; did some shopping and boat stuff with SAUCY LADY and JAKE and babysat JAKE and their cat Lupe; made weather curtains for the aft rails; rinsed the salt water off, cleaned and waxed the hull and standing rigging; set up the shade canopy successfully; played with a lifting system for the porta-boat; and, spliced the mainsheet. Went to several time-share presentations (the gifts for going was worth about $1500). Julie and I searched for the hotels we stayed at when we were here (in different lives, but at the same time) in 1986; Julie found hers, I did not.
Saturday – April 5, 2008
1010 – Clear skies, hot and no wind. JAKE has returned and they and SAUCY LADY cast us off. JAKE will anchor out in La Cruz and follow us to Mazatlan in a week or so and SAUCY LADY will put their boat on the hard and go back to Seattle for the summer. We’re headed for Denver to baby-sit Keelyn (our granddaughter) while her folks take a little vacation.
1800 – clear skies and calm seas. Motoring north for Mazatlan; started three hour watches at noon. No other boats to be seen.
Sunday – April 6, 2008
1630 – Arrive Mazatlan, Singlar Marina. Uneventful trip coming north; didn’t see any other vessels till just south of Mazatlan old harbor. Disgraceful docking … again; I’m not used to the new propeller. The old propeller (which was repitched to go with the new engine) would slow the boat measurably when put in reverse allowing for a very seamanlike docking procedure. This re-pitched propeller does nothing to slow the boat; indeed, sometimes I think it speeds the boat up. The first time I’d taken the boat out of the slip after having the propeller repitched was here in the Mazatlan marina basin. I entered the slip, with my usual authority, hit reverse expecting the boat to slow, which it didn’t, and with my 37- pound CQR anchor I smacked the water and electricity housing unit on the dock … breaking the water main. Julie is yelling at me, water is squirting everywhere and the head of Singlar is due at any moment for an inspection of the marina. I sheepishly scurried up to the office and informed them of my mishap. With knowing looks, but a professional visage they told me to run along and had it fixed within about 30 minutes.
I’m pretty sure it’s the propellers fault, … although the remote shifting mechanism for the transmission was switched around so it’s counter intuitive (pushing forward is reverse and pulling back is forward). I put indicators on the shift mechanism to remind me, but I suppose I could’ve put the boat into forward … that would explain it speeding up (but, that’s all in the past and does no good to dwell on it). This latest incident though, I was being exceedingly careful, because in addition to my past mishap, the wind had just piped up on the stern … it always does! I entered the slip slowly, with a port side tie (as the boat backs down to port); I wasn’t close enough for Julie to step onto the dock and by the time I had backed down enough for her to make that critical move, the bow of the boat had swung out and we were almost beam into the slip! Ordinarily, embarrassment would be the only consequence for that position, but just inches from the 37 pound, galvanized, indestructible, non-giving, roughly edged CQR anchor on the bow of my boat was the hull of a brand new Halberg-Rassy. Quickly, with only moments to spare we were able to secure ITCHEN’s bow back into her half of the slip, tie off her stern and secure her spring lines.
It’s one thing to be embarrassed in front of strangers (what do they know and who cares, right?) but on this particular day, sitting over at Marina Mazatlan, with a completely unobstructed view of our debacle was another boat (HOOLIGAN) whom we had known for years from our old yacht club in Tacoma. They were on their boat, sipping gin and tonics, watching the whole sorry, sordid affair. We later invited them to dinner, got them drunk and took compromising pictures to ensure their silence. Engine hours 165.4
Monday – Wednesday, April 7–9, 2008
Mazatlan lay days – Filled with fuel 38 gallons = .67 gal/hour at 2600 rpm; and water. Secured boat, dinghy and outboard; keys for car to Bob (for JAKE) and packed for Denver. HOOLIGIAN and Bob and Raph for dinner.
Thursday – Thursday, April 10-24, 2008
Fly to Denver for babysitting duties. See Molly, Bodhi and Keelyn; Bob and Carole; Dan and his family; and, Brigid flew out from San Diego. Shopping at thrift stores, book stores, marine stores. Went to a couple of movies (Nim’s Island and Treasure Hunt {or something}) and went up to the mountains. Toyed with the idea of getting some winter jobs at the ski slopes so we could ski all the slopes in Colorado. Talked with the taxman who screwed up our return. He claimed Tim as a dependent and when Tim went to file his return it was rejected. Taxman told me to pay Tim the difference (as re-filing would amount to about the same thing), which I did. Doing this aced Tim out of his stimulus package though, so the taxman re-filed our return; this involved us sending the taxman money for the overpayment of our return and to pay his bill. I’m getting really tired of paying to have work done and having it done poorly. Return to Mazatlan.
Friday – Friday, April 25 – May 2, 2008
Mazatlan lay day – Installed oil and water temp gauges for engine; installed 12 volt fans in v-berth; installed 12 volt plug for refrigerator; fixed fuel tank leak; cleaned and waxed boat; made larger table for cockpit (four can dine in the cockpit now); everyone over for dinner on different days. JAKE, BEYOND REASON and THE BOYS. Last minute underway preparations for Altata. Jamie cleaned the boat bottom and up to Bob’s for fiesta (Mexican Labor Day).
Saturday – May 3, 2008
0800 – Depart Mazatlan; skies clear and sunny; wind and waves from NNW (predicted from SW … go figure). Big swells at the harbor entrance; both of us a little seasick … me first then Julie; both recovered by mid afternoon.
1800 – sea calm, no wind, motoring north at 5-6 knots
Sunday – May 4, 2008
0630 – Approach entrance to Altata. Altata bay is a large, shallow, protected bay. The entrance has a long perfidious bar that extends perhaps half-a-mile into the sea and creates impressive surf that caps well away from shore! From outward appearances the entrance looks straight forward, but it is as treacherous as anything we’ve crossed since leaving the Pacific NW with the massive breakers, that given the opportunity, will quickly toss the boat out of the narrow, poorly marked channel and on to the bar where it will be driven into the sand, covered by only a few feet of sea and slowly dismembered joint by joist. The bar can only be crossed at high-slack tide and in calm weather; we planned our departure from Mazatlan to arrive here at just such a moment and had obtained the critical entrance waypoints from a fellow cruiser; sixteen waypoints, half of which cover just the entrance with the remaining waypoints plotting the twelve-mile run up the bay.
The dawn sea was calm; visibility was good as the sun skulked over our sterns horizon to expose, through a gray tinted marine layer, wave after gentle wave swell into towering breakers that inevitably capped on themselves climaxing with a violent flow of white spray and a thundering crash followed by the long, resonating death knell. JAKE was in the lead, as we watched his 45 foot, 25,000 pound swan enter the breakers flank, ride up the back of the wave and over the top, only to have it break on his stern causing the boat to disappear behind a wall of water as it staggered, rolled, pitched and finally lurched forward, remarkably still in the channel and on the back of another wave. Breaker after breaker the performance repeated itself, often with the depth meter reading zero feet, until we squirted into the safety of the inner bay out the surfs tenacious grasp, where we were greeted by a flotilla of panga’s and a pod of dolphins. JAKE glibly radioed back to relieve the pucker watch so that they may wipe themselves. Easily we moved up the remainder of the channel to our anchorage.
0830 – Drop anchor in 15 feet of water off La Perla palapa (beach restaurant) in Altata village. Engine hours 195; turn to battery bank one, rig the sun-shade, launch the dingy and tour the village after a mid-morning nap. Altata is a small, and with some reservation I say, resort village located at the head of Altata bay (you may be able to find it at googleearth.com 24.37.613 N – 107.55.693 W). Vacationers come from the nearby city of Culican, 30 miles east (which is purportedly the drug and murder capital of Mexico) on most Sundays. Gustave told us that Sunday is Altata’s big business day; the rest of the week is quiet. This “resort” community has nothing more than a waterfront loaded up with palapa’s; no beaches, hotels, bars, clubs or condo’s … just palapa’s and water. The dirt (not paved or cobblestone) roads are covered with fine grit that wafts into the air at the slightest disturbance and glazes everything. The village has the usual array of disjointed, partially painted concrete buildings, in which the concrete flakes off in huge slabs; (a fellow cruiser, who knew about these things, told us the concrete cracks and flakes because the Mexicans don’t wash the salt out of the sand prior to mixing in the cement). Altata’s uniquely cultural feature (remember Mazatlan and PV) is the location of the palapa’s … they’re not just beachfront, but in-the-water beachfront. At high-tide part of, if not the entire, restaurant is setting in the water. It doesn’t seem to bother the patrons any, as they just wade in and take a seat. These palapa’s are open-air affairs made of wood posts with a light roof or tarp over them, a small cook top stove using propane, soft drink dispenser, cash register, tables and chairs. They’re not portable and given the building codes, there would be nothing stopping one from saying they weren’t permanent. The other group of palapa’s (the concrete one’s) are just at high tide’s edge (when the tide is in, one can step from the dinghy into the palapa). Between the two is a road (?), which is used constantly, tide in or out, by delivery trucks, pickups full of the daily catch and passenger vehicles, all of which pass merrily across the sand through the salt water to places unknown. In our abbreviated village tour, we found a little Mercado in which to buy a few things and then made our way back to La Perla for lunch.
La Perla is a family run business that has catered to cruisers for many years. At one time the restaurant walls were covered with boat names, signatures, pictures and other memorabilia from passing cruisers but “Gustave” the proprietor told us the health department made him paint it over (yea, I don’t get it either … ahhh, I guess I do). He now keeps his cruisers memorabilia in a tattered, but much treasured, photograph album. The village seemed fairly quiet as we puttered around and La Perla was empty when we sat down, but by the time we left, La Perla, the beach and bay were jumping with vacationers. Imperceptibly, La Perla filled up with diners, and soon followed the parade of vendors with craftwork of hats, belts, bracelets, scarves and hammocks; girls selling slices of flan and coconut cookies (why is it barnacles don’t grow on coconuts) and musical entertainers. Usually the entertainers are a small instrumental band that serenades the table (this is throughout Mexico), but in Altata our live entertainment came in the form of a middle-aged matron, carrying an old boom box with a tape player. Stone cold sober, and I kid you not, she barreled into La Perla, set the boom box down on the table, started the scratchy tape (of children’s songs!) and sang along with the tape … out of key … doing a modified hula. She carefully watched for an errant gaze she could seize, but all eyes modestly refrained and converstations suddenly reached a zenith of intensity. Undeterred, she lumbered through the tables looking for rewards commensurate with her talents; it was a tough crowd, but that’s show business … bless her heart. We exited La Perla to find all the palapa’s were full, the beach road was crowded with foot traffic, cars were parked every which and the water was alive with swimmers, jet ski’s and panga’s pulling banana boats and inner tubes.
Monday – Thursday, May 5-8, 2008
Altata, at anchor – Check in and out with the Port Captain; I don’t think they really care or really know what to do, but sure enough if we don’t, we’ll incur a heavy fine. Sunny and warm all week; windy in the afternoon and early evening; gusts up to 22 knots but anchor holding firm. Power on bank one lasted till Wednesday and I was still able to start the engine on that bank (ran the engine for an hour to recharge battery band). Took daily swims and trips into village for exercise or some small provision. Discovered an Internet café. It was a run down building with no windows, or any indication at all that it was a communications Mecca. It was next to a tienda (little grocery store) we were browsing in, and a young man (the proprietor) came out of the Internet café and sat on the stoop. He has ten computers, a wi-fi connection, air-conditioning and charged 2 centavos a minute for the Internet. The first time we were in there, a couple of schoolgirls were in doing homework (all the school kids wear uniforms in Mexico) and I noticed she pulled a cell phone out of her skirt pocket to answer a call. My mind still rolls over the incongruity between the austerity of the village and the presence of high tech gadgets like computers and cell phones … mmmmm The village is absolutely deserted; no kids in school, no traffic and, no tourists. Panga’s make morning and afternoon runs going out the fishing grounds and returning. Visited La Perla a couple more times (in appreciation for Gustave swimming out to the boats to notify us of recent dinghy thefts and to advise us to raise our dinghies at night), and finished the last episode of the Soprano’s (what a let down). Phosphorescence on the dinghy ride home one evening. You remember my telling you about the phosphorescence in the sea while crewing on COK CABUK, the same thing happened again in Altata. I’m sure there is an explanation for it, as it happens intermittently, but the water was really lit-up. The outboard prop-wash, the dinghies bow wake and the fish. The brightness was equal to an L.E.D. bulb. Once back aboard ITCHEN, I stood in the cockpit and watched the little tiny dots of light in the water, like the stars in the night sky; I could see the movements of the fish through their vapor like, phosphorescent trail. One huge fish, probably a dolphin, left a phosphorescent trail so large it lit up the whole aft quarter of port side. What a way to get ready for bed.
Friday – May 9, 2008
0830 – Weigh anchor for the long trip down the bay; clear day, calm seas and light winds out of the NW. Only a few pangas pass us on our way down the bay; no shore activity. Spot a pod of three dolphins on JAKE’s stern and a few minutes later our boat unexpectedly yaws and rolls; Julie spins around looking for the cause, but I think it’s the dolphins having a little fun with us. Sure enough, all three surface, in unison, about 25 feet off the aft port quarter of the boat. According to the plotter we are directly over the course we followed entering the bay (plotters are just magnificent as long as the electricity holds out).
1030 – Exit Altata bay at high tide, amid 37 pangas; navigate the breakers (a more docile group) and set our course just a touch south of west, across the Sea of Cortez, for La Paz.
1900 – Half across the sea, longitude 109.00.00 W; flat calm and no wind. Small land bird joins us (from who know where) huffing and puffing; barely able to snag the topping lift for a perch. After a few minutes, he gets himself oriented and hops up to one of the mast steps, tucks himself in against the mast and settles in for a long rest. I will let him stay, as long as he doesn’t foul the nest. JAKE is not so fortunate. About the same time he has a booby land on his spreader. Shortly after his arrival the bird begins to poop all over the boat, at one point nailing Sharon square on the noggin (Jake had failed to report off that they had an uninvited guest). Jake tries a number of things (bright lights, rattling the halyard and/or blowing the airhorn) to frighten the booby away, to no good end. In the morning, the boat and sails are a mess.
Saturday – May 10, 2008
0600 – Dawn; calm seas and clear skies. Motoring at 1800 rpm as JAKE is conserving fuel.
1200 – Arrive La Paz; secure to mooring buoy in Virtual Marina off Vista Coral Hotel, right in the middle of the city’s waterfront. Buoy is $7.50/night and includes use a secure dinghy dock, showers, head, trash and cruisers lounge. Engine hours 223; fuel tank 3/8 full. In to town for exploration and up to CCC (grocery store). La Paz is by far and away the cleanest and neatest Mexican city we’ve been in.
Sunday – May 11, 2008
La Paz – moored out in virtual marina; winds are up but not much fetch. Mothers Day so called both mothers. Took bike for a long ride along the malecon and did a little exploration before Julies back tire went flat. Ice Cream in the town plaza and dinner and movie on JAKE. Movie was “There Will Be Blood” … worst movie we’ve ever seen, unanimous decision!
Monday – May 12, 2008
La Paz – virtual marina; Checked in with Vista Coral Hotel (buoy owners) and Port Captain via Marina La Paz. 45 minute net this morning and included movie reviews. Julies bike to shop for tire repair; $4, no waiting. Over to Waldo’s (Mexican version of a dollar store).
Tuesday – May 13, 2008
La Paz – Switched water tanks (10 days using only 44 gallons of water); cleaned boat; emptied head and made lifting line for dinghy (porta boat); set up generator and shade canopy. Not at all pleased with either one. I have to stow the Honda 1000 watt portable generator and the gasoline it uses; it only puts out 8 amps; I run the generator for hours with little or no effect, yet I can pretty well charge up a bank of batteries from the engine in about an hour. I’m not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze. The generator does seem to work better if I go directly through the battery charger as opposed to going through the shore power plug.
I experimented with setting up the shade canopy differently (for an easier, faster way of assembly and especially disassembly) and wound up setting it up just the way Julie designed it. Once set up, it provides a magnificent amount of shade, flow through ventilation and ease of movement. The wind has been gusting at 20 knots and it stays in place without incident. The problems are multiple; the topping lift causes a split in the canopy that complicates the assembly/disassembly procedure. The bungee tent poles, that need to be assembled and fed through a corresponding casing on the canopy, are unwieldy; when assembled, they are well over 12 feet long (this is required to give the necessary height and shape to the canopy); and the canopy itself. The canopy is 9 x 9 feet of 4.5 ounce Dacron, which is not easily managed on a boat that is only 11’9” at its beam, and littered with spars, wires and line. The options are; to outfit the boat with a boom vang or boom crutch and eliminate the topping lift; modify the shape of the canopy so it extends aft only as far as the topping lift; change the design of the canopy using shorter poles and the main halyard (with four attachment points) as the support mechanism; leave it the way it is; or bag the idea of a shade canopy in the Sea of Cortez, altogether.
Went to the movie “Ironman” ($4 for the movie and $2 for popcorn).
Wednesday – May 14, 2008
La Paz – trouble with the propane stove again. Jake suggested the regulator. Went to Lopez Marine and purchased a new regulator ($99) but when I got back to the boat it didn’t look like it was going to fit. I opened the old regulator; eight screws, a spring and rubber gasket. Cleaned everything off, checked for holes and blew on the vent; reassembled it and viola! the stove works like a champ. Returned the newly purchased regulator. Bought a dinghy anchor, and “slime” for the bike tires. Lunch at Applebee’s and out to dinner with JAKE and ZEPHYER (44’ Morgan Out Islander). Ice Cream on the Malecon from a little place that makes their own cones; certainly not unique, but the little cups and banana boats they make out of the same dough is.
Thursday – May 15, 2008
La Paz Buoy – Installed another 12-volt plug and fan for salon. Julie into town to explore the open-air markets (very disappointed with them – not up to Mazatlan standards). Using more battery power now with computer, so after about the third day I need to start running the engine an hour a day to top the batteries off. Received amended tax return (via email); signed and emailed back. Trouble paying for AVG virus program for computer; AVG won’t accept credit cards or pay-pal as I’m living out of the country and the credit card is registered to our home address in Washington; it’s a German outfit that is doing the billing for AVG (Nazi bastards).
Friday – Sunday, May 16-18, 2008
La Paz – bike around town; daily afternoon swim against a surprisingly strong current with a fresh water shower afterwards; pot luck at Singlar Marina La Paz (looks just like the Singlar in Mazatlan). Porta boat is kind of slow; it does what it’s supposed to and is very responsive and stable; the little 3.5 HP will get me alone up on a plane and it’s a breeze to lift onto the ITCHEN’s bow at night, but it is slow and not quite as seaworthy as I hoped. I’ve heard a few inflatables advertised on the net. View tube on urinal leaking
Monday – Tuesday, May 19-20, 2008
La Paz – Into Marina La Paz for fuel and water; 31 gallons of fuel ($87); engine hours 232.7; burned 0.46 gallons/hour (optimally, that would give me a cruising range of over 500 miles). Gave boat a fresh water wash down while refueling. Had trouble recapturing the buoy on the return to the mooring; marina staff came out to help … mildly embarrassing.
On the net this morning, BORREAS (36’ Pearson) will trade hard bottom dingy and 9.9 hp engine for coconuts (illegal to buy or sell in Mexico); another cruiser stepped on me and got the boat. Spoke with BORREAS anyway (turns out he, and his wife, were at NOAA when I was and he recognized me … that may not be a good thing). BORREAS still had the 9.9 engine and a friend with a hard bottom dinghy. Made a deal for 11’ inflatable, hard bottom dinghy and engine. JAKE went with me to check out dinghy and on the way home we stopped at a corner store (open on both sides) for some water. The bikes were not out of our view for more than 60 seconds and my bike was stolen; it was on the inside of JAKE’s and not nearly as convenient to take. It was the only time I hadn’t locked it.
Wednesday – Thursday, May 21-22, 2008
La Paz- Windy days and nights are the order of things. The boats at anchor, or on a buoy, do what is sarcastically called the La Paz Waltz. Usually in an anchorage all the boats will be lieing the same way gently pulling on their rode’s; bows all pointed neatly in one direction like a very expensive and elaborate wind vane. One knows the La Paz Waltz is in full swing when all the boats in the harbor are swinging at different angles, twisted and strewn about like a box of toothpicks on the supermarket floor. The waltz is caused by a strong tidal current of about three to four knots (ebb or flood, take your pick) and a substantial wind that seems to always blow against the current; the morning sea breeze coming from the east, or the afternoon cormels; a hot land breeze that comes up from the west. The boats will be pushed bow first over the tops of their anchors/buoys, driving down on them; think about this … the vessel isn’t pulling on its rode, it’s pushing it! It’s disconcerting and irritating … niggling! The boat springs back and then bob’s around until it’s in another cockeyed position … it’s such an un-seaworthy act by the wind and the water all to embarrass the boat … I don’t even want to write about it.
Dinghy being repaired; bottom being re-glued (all part of the deal) and BORREAS brought by the 9.9 Tohatsu outboard that I’ll trade for my 3.5 hp. After ten attempts, the Nazi’s will still not accept payment for the computer anti-virus program. Dinner with JAKE and TENACITY (43’ Pearson).
Friday – May 23, 2008
La Paz Virtual Marina – up to Club Crucero (the local cruisers home made club house) for wi-fi to resolve AVG payment problem and get airline tickets to see kids (before they deploy again), Chuck and Shirley in Seattle and COK CABUK in Oregon. AVG finally accepted payment from credit card, which is what I tried in the first place (had to bypass the Nazi’s completely). Julie to grocery store and I to bank for funds. Dinghy repairs not completed, maybe tomorrow. Small plane flew overhead doing some voice marketing … talk about noise pollution; usually it’s a recording blaring through a megaphone mounted on the roof of a pickup, but the Mexicans have elevated verbal marketing to flight status. Oh my …
Saturday – May 24, 2008
La Paz– JAKE departed for an anchorage outside La Paz; we’ll catch up later. Dinghy delivered (hopefully not leaking) and we swapped engines (it’s nice to have ample power getting from a to b). I’ve got a line on a whisker pole and a couple of folding bikes. Dinner alone and dinghy into town for a walk on the malecon and ice cream. Watched some Mexican dancers; the music and dancing are remarkably like the polka.
Sunday – May 25, 2008
Julie punched a hole through the cooling jacket of our Engle refrigerator chipping ice for gin and tonics. She was distraught and there was a great wailing and gnashing of teeth heard throughout the province. Bought a smaller, lighter whisker pole (fit’s very nicely on the boat).
Monday, May 26, 2008
Refer to Hector (the local refrigeration repair guy), who came down to marina to pick it up it. Borrowed cooler from YELLOW STAR (35’ Trimaran). Mounted new larger outboard bracket on stern rail; made new lifting dinghy straps for inflatable and repaired leaking urinal.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Refer repaired and delivered to marina first thing. Get 2 stroke oil and extra gas for dinghy. Returned cooler to YELLOW STAR (with a thank you note and brownies). Warned not to leave boat unattended in Puerto Escondido due to thefts, vandalism and $20/night moorage (no marina), Settled up with Vista Coral, showered and prepared to weigh anchor. Moorage for 16 days $120; Fuel $87; new dinghy and engine $500; anchor for dinghy $22; whisker pole $300; refrigerator repair $150; stolen bike $150; Anti-virus for computer $52; the cruising life … priceless!
1530 – Weigh anchor La Paz; winds out of the south at 10-15 knots, skies clear; dinghy in tow. On our way north we encounter a triple story mega yacht heading south. A helicopter approaches the yacht, circles around the yacht (like a big bug) and very gingerly lands on the yachts mid-deck, right behind the pilothouse. We’ve seen this vessel numerous times before in Cabo and PV, but always with the helicopter attached. There is only room for the cockpit of the helicopter to sit on the yachts deck, as the entire tail structure extends off the aft end of the vessel, much like a bird balancing on a wire. The yachts landing pad clearance is so small and positioned in such a way that a gust of wind or rogue wave, I would think, could easily turn the helicopter into the worlds most expensive circular saw taking the third deck off like a hot knife through butter. The pilot who landed the helicopter on the yacht has some really big marbles … big and heavy and made of really shinny brass. We watched the yacht disappear down the channel against the backdrop of the setting sun on a glistening sea framed within a forbidding desert coastline; a jagged coastline, jutting up from the sea like shards of broken pottery; dried and burnt from eons spent in a solar oven baking away any veneer and leaving only the massive geological scars of the planets turbulent past.
1945 – drop anchor in 16 feet of water Caleta bay, Isla Partida; engine hours 251.3; rendezvous with JAKE. Two catamarans, four mono-hulls and two large powerboats share protected anchorage. Dinner with JAKE and marvel at the phosphorescence on the dinghy ride home.
Wednesday – May 28, 2008
a.m - Caleta Bay, Isla Partida , Sea of Cortez- Plan hike today to the islands fresh water lagoon. Dinghy out of our cove, cautiously at first, but the waves are small so we throttle up; the dinghy jumps up on a plane and skims across the deep blue-green sea, around the point, up the neighboring cove into the opaque, lime colored, shallow water of El Cardoncito Bay. HEAVENLY STAR (Gemini 30) is only boat anchored in cove. Monty (the master) is ashore fixing his dinghy and helps us land ours. As Julie steps out (to pull me ashore), she almost steps on three baby stingrays; she immediately remembers her lessons from Turtle Bay regarding the stingray shuffle to avoid getting stung. Safely ashore, with joy to Monte, we begin our hike to the top of the island via the dried out riverbed that sets in one of the islands ravines. On our way up, a little black lizard joins us and periodically darts in front of us, as if to serve as our trail guide; he was with us the whole way up (Julie thinks it was several different lizards). Geologically, it’s puzzling why the island has a river bed; it’s not large, nor high, is nothing but rock and doesn’t have any kind of natural water shed; so why the riverbed? The riverbed/path is loaded with massive boulders and it’s easy to see where they’ve calved off the cliffs above. It has many dried up pools and waterfalls and many of the rocks have hollows worn in them caused by rushing water, but from how long ago, we can’t imagine. The rocks beneath our feet are often hollow and have a tympanic resonance when tapped; indeed the cliff sides are pocked with holes and irregular hollows. The area, indeed this very island and our anchorage, is volcanic in origin. No signs of life on the island except for wasps at a fresh water well, our lizard buddy and one black jackrabbit; how do you suppose he got on the island? We return to boat for lunch, a swim, gin and tonics and a nap.
13 boats in the anchorage by days end. Nighttime reveals the sea is phosphoresceing so much that the pelicans are night fishing. The anchorage is dark with the exception of anchor lights and the phosphorescence; just beyond the field of night vision, one hears a great thundering splashing clamor. Using a powerful spotlight we wait for the noise and then illuminate the area just in time to see a pelican withdraw his beak from the water and swallow (pelicans are so elegant in flight and conservative in appearance, why then such clumsy fisherman). Sleep envelops us as the splashing fades into the distance.
Thursday – May 29, 2008
0910 – Weigh anchor Carlita Bay, Isla Partida; sunny skies, no wind and calm seas.
1010 – Cruise around seal rock at north end of island and watch the seals and sea lions play and bark on the rocks. Many tourists and cruisers come out here to swim with the seals; they say to not extend your hands as the seals think it’s food and you may get a nip. There are five buoys on either side of the rocks for boats to moor on. We hovered for a little, watching, and then made our way around the north end of the rocks. On the other side were more seals; much more friendly though as they came swimming out to see us, swam around the boat a bit, barking and splashing and when they saw we weren’t coming in, they swam back to their warm rocks.
1410 – Anchor at Isla San Francisco in 15 feet of water with sandy bottom; engine hours 256.5. Dinghy leaking water where aft port sponson and sole meet; also leaking air from starboard sponson. Borrow JAKE’s pump and discover air leak is coming from inflation port and is intermittent. Panga with three fisherman motored up to JAKE looking for drinking water. JAKE gave them a gallon and Julie contacted them for fish. They came over to ITCHEN and removed a rug that was covering a 55-gallon plastic drum laid on its side. The drum had part of the side (now top) cut and it was filled with seawater and fish (the fish were quite alive). We swapped two cans of beer for a couple of good size species of white fish. Dinghied to beach for a short walk. On the southwest end of the point we found a little monument that cruisers are building; it’s a pile of coral, about three feet high. Those that take the time to walk out to the point add there own little piece of coral, rock or whatever is laying around, to the pile; we each added a little piece of coral we’d picked up on the beach. Back to the boat and I went for a swim; the wind had come up so I thought I’d check the anchor but couldn’t see it; checked my position relative to JAKE and discovered we were dragging (I’m really losing faith in this CQR). Weighed anchor and headed for the north end of the bay; dropped the anchor and it seems to be holding … for now. Harbor filling with boats; ten already. Changed the propane tank.
Friday – May 30, 2008
Isla San Francisco lay day – Early morning swim and Jake over for breakfast. Dinghied to shore and walked around island; to the top of the island; and, across the island to the opposite side. Back to boat and cleaned bottom and napped. Dinner and West Wing with JAKE.
Saturday – May 31, 2008
0730- Up for an early morning swim and fresh water shower
0830 – Weigh anchor
0915 – Pass Isla Coyote, which is a very small (maybe and acre or two) rock … reef … island that is inhabited. The island rises about 40 feet out of the water which is inhabited by a small community of fisherman and their families; their houses can clearly be seen from the water. We’ve heard the island has been inhabited for hundreds of years. Cruisers are welcomed and often purchase fish and/or craftwork made by the locals.
1000 – Bahia Amortajada, Isla San Jose- Drop anchor (at least try to) in 5 feet of water. Unable to get the plow/CQR anchor to set; back around the anchorage like an idiot but finally it sets. I dive on it just to make sure and see the anchor is on its side, buried in the sand. Launch the dinghies and head for the mangrove lagoon, which is why we came here. It’s perplexing to sail into the harbor of a desert island and see cactus and mangroves growing right next to each other. The lagoon is a mangrove lined, continuous channel that cut across a spit at the tip of island; the tip helps form the bay. The channel is guarded by a shallow bar and is not as ominous as Tenacatita; it is much wider, has numerous shoals and no dramatic canopy that hides the honest daylight. Still, it does have a couple of diversionary canals that beckon only the bravest mariners and it’s wide enough that, were two dinghies inclined, they could drag race through it. The water is clear, and the fish are bountiful; small, large, stripped, flat, long and narrow are all represented. We pick our way through the shallows, and then fairly zip along the wide canal as it gently meanders through the mangroves, ignoring the smaller canals (for now), ultimately opening onto a large lagoon, like a lake within a sea. We run the length of the lagoon at full throttle and then decide to head back for the really serious (and dangerous) work of investigating those canals. The first canal JAKE cautiously enters and disappears behind the thick vegetation as the murky water swallows his wake. I frantically lift my outboard to avoid hitting the bottom, but before I can get permanently adjusted, he returns reporting that the canal dead ends in a glut of mangrove roots and water … bummer. Adjusted now, I take the lead on the next canal. This one is longer and takes some intriguing bends; narrower and narrower the canal becomes as the mangroves close in over us. There, on the port side we see the telltale flotsam pinned by the weak and ambivalent current against the mangrove thicket; it’s large … larger than the dinghies and multicolored; brown, black and irregularly shaped. Warily we advance, flanking the object on either side. There is no response, no movement to be seen; carefully we watch for the slightest flicker, imperceptible noise or disturbance in the fetid atmosphere, but alas none is forthcoming. It’s clear to us now that a death has occurred; little evidence of foul play exists and besides any there was has long been washed away; nothing remains save some skin and appendages; more likely the death was accidental. This object, a juvenile whale we suspect, has been dead for a great long time and it appears this quiet corner of the mangrove lagoon will become his burial plot.
Back out across the bar and discover the boat has dragged anchor, again!
1130 – haul the anchor up dangling in the water and get underway; crossing the channel I change the plow for the original danforth. I prefer danforths anyway and I’ve never not had one set.
1400 – Anchor in San Evaristo harbor in 6.5 feet of water; anchor sets immediately. San Evaristo is little village 75 miles north of La Paz. Despite its size it has a school, a small tienda and a desalination plant. We dinghy into town to investigate the tienda. It’s a local home … quasi farm, in which we walk through roosters, chickens, lambs, dogs and a pickup truck to get to the front door. It’s quite well stocked with fresh vegetables and canned goods. Meat and dairy products are kept outside in the refrigerator … gutted, tipped on its back and filled with ice. Most all of the structures have solar panels, which charge batteries that are used for electricity (we saw no power lines coming into the village and heard a generator running the desalination plant). Went for an afternoon swim and dove on the anchor; it’s buried in the sand.
2230 – JAKE notifies all cruisers (via VHF) he just busted some locals trying to steal his dinghy. Dinghy and/or outboard engine theft is a problem for cruisers and as a result we lock the engines bolts when attached to the dinghy, making them an inseparable unit. At anchor, at night, we hoist the dinghy out of the water with a halyard and leave it suspended on the side of the boat; this pretty much thwarts any would be thieves. What these idiots thought they would achieve is anybodies guess. JAKE only faintly heard some tinkling outside. Peeking out to investigate, he caught the three of them red-handed. They feigned some excuse about needing tequila, slunk back into their panga and speed away into the darkness.
Sunday – June 1, 2008
San Evaristo anchorage – Hazy day and cool … cooler. Dinghy into village while WIND TOY watches our dinghies. Walk over the hill to the sand pits. Desalination plant makes water for the village. The homes in the village store their water either; by filling a 100 gallon plastic barrel, or running irrigation conduit to a hole that’s been dug in the ground. Back at the boat, I put on a snorkel mask, plunge into the water and make like “Mike Nelson in Sea Hunt” (great mariner that I am). Flipping over to investigate the depths below me (the water is dangerously calm and a full fathom in depth) I immediately spot a sting ray, about the size of a large pizza pan, gliding just above the sandy bottom, right below me! Luckily, I’m in the water so cleaning my Speedos doesn’t present any difficulty or embarrassment (this kind of forethought and preparation comes with years of experience). Composed (and clean) I return to my snorkeling (up current) and become aware I’m being observed; just beneath the keel, carefully peeking up is a shy little puffer fish. They’re nifty to watch as they motor about; up, down, backwards and forwards like really underpowered, mini-helicopters. She sees she’s been discovered, spins and rotates her ventral fins furiously gaining just enough weigh for steerage, and motors away at a terrifyingly slow rate. Snorkeling in a ten foot perimeter around the boat, I’m satisfied the anchorage is in good order, and making a note to myself to paint the anchor white so I can see it, I emerge from another great adventure and relive my exploits in the vast empty chambers of my mind while sucking on a cold beer. Julie is napping and it would be dangerous to wake her so she may bestow on me the full admiration I deserve.
Monday – June 2, 2008
0900 – Weigh anchor for Ensenada el Cardonal bay, Isla Partida. Goodbye’s to JAKE and we have their shopping list. There is a commotion in the otherwise still water a little port of our course; we can just make out a frenzy of diving birds and their great splashes. As we get closer, we see a multitude of dorsal fins … fifty a hundred fins, on the outer edges of the melee. Dolphins (we think feeding); periodically launching themselves out of the water in fits of exuberance. Alerted to our presence, pod after pod of six to eight dolphins peel off the main body and in a tumbling, joyful heap race over to the boat. We keep our course, but ease back on the throttle in so as not to be inhospitable to our new friends. They streak around the boat, under it and jump out of the water beside it, joyfully attacking us from all sides. Standing on the deck, peering down into the clear blue-green sea, we watch as they sweep under the bow, just leading the boat and then in a very human gesture, turn sideways, soft milky eyes gazing up, entreating us, to come play. I was an RCH away from joining them. When we return I must swim with the seals and the dolphins and become one with the sea.
1500 – Ensenada el Cardonal bay, Isla Partida; drop the hook (the strong, dependable, accommodating danforth anchor) in 6.5 feet of water, well off shore; it sets immediately; backing down at 2200 rpm doesn’t budge it; engine hours 266.5. Go for a swim and dive on the anchor. Dinghy to shore, a good distance away. As we approach shore, gases emitted from the decomposing matter in the shallow lagoon foul the air; the breeze is steady and we’re soon past it. Upon landing, we take a short hike across the island, beside the lagoon the entire way, startled when the ground before us begins to ripple with thousands of fiddler crabs (tiny little freaks whose right claw is much larger - sometimes the size of their body – than the normal sized left claw), panic stricken, tumble headlong over each other for the relative safety of the water.
It’s quite peaceful, anchored by ourselves in this vast bay. Sitting in the cockpit, we watch the sun peacefully disappear behind the peninsula. The westerly breeze is light, but steady causing a small chop on the waters surface and holding the boat snug on the anchor. Using the binoculars, we carefully study the cliffs surrounding the bay for movement that would betray signs of life … none is beheld. The atmosphere is tranquil save the periodic splash, pause and then the rhythmatic flapping of wings the pelicans create, in search of their evening meal.
Tuesday – June 3, 2008
0710 – Weigh anchor, clear skies, calm seas and no wind. Uneventful passage to La Paz
1205- Arrive Marina La Paz, slip 314; engine hours 271.5. Radioed the marina on approach and they had line handlers waiting to catch us. No mishaps, the boat glided smoothly into the berth. Secured the boat; registered with the marina; contacted Hector the refrigerator repairman about the refer only freezing on one side, and Milton about the dingy repair; put up the sun shades; changed the bow anchor to the CQR and the put the danforth back on the stern; rinsed the salt and dirt off the boat and rinsed out the anchor locker with fresh water; filled the port water tank and went up to the restaurant to celebrate ZEPHYR’s birthday. Julie searched the Internet of car rentals, so that we may go north. Showered and discover hundreds of bite marks my shoulders, arms and back. Must’ve been attacked, while sleeping, by “no see-ums” in Ensenada el Cardonal (dirty little buggers).
Wednesday – June 4, 2008
Final preparations for trip north. Write Chuck, Gary and Brigid; get the refer back from the shop, fill up with propane; laundry; get rental car, load up porta-boat, take down the sun shade, haul the dinghy, secure the outboard and button up ITCHEN.
