Itchen log Aug 6-14,2007

Monday, August 6, 2007 –0800- Depart Tillamook for Newport. Blew an engine cooling hose midway out the channel. Quickly repaired the broken connection and continued on our way. At the channel entrance, the cooling system overflow blew and steam was just pouring out. We decided to return to port. When I did the underway repair of the cooling hose I didn’t bleed the lines, so I developed a vapor lock, which caused the second episode of overheating. In port, I hose clamped and bled the lines and refilled the cooling system. All was now in order. Tim called about 1000, so there was a reason we were not to go out that day, after all. Spent the rest on the day on R&R tucked into the lush evergreen and mist covered mountains of Garibaldi.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007 – 0815 – Depart Tillamook (time 2), heavy fog and 4-8 foot swells. Winds out of the SW at 5 knots. Set course for Yaquina Head (Newport, OR). Averaged 5-7 knots. Julie took 25mg of Meclazine (Bonine) and she was OUT! Not seasick though.
1910 – Arrived Newport, clear skies, calm seas- beautiful open harbor with a wide channel- 57 miles made good. Folks very friendly – “Mark” a local we met walking on the dock provided us his key card for the showers. On the way to the showers we met another couple, who told about local transportation and also offered us their key card. The friendliest town we’ve been in yet. Anchor locker still leaking, though much less.

Wednesday, August 8, 2007 – Laid over in Newport, OR. Rainey and cold this morning. Able to finally use reciprocals (no charge and we stayed two nights). Beautiful marina with excellent facilities. 0900 - Called a cab for a ride into town. Down to Wal-Mart for shopping. Walked back by way of Safeway, Thriftway, a music store, and a couple of thrift stores. Wandered into the old seaport part of Newport (touristy section) and got an ice cream. We went to catch a free shuttle back to the harbor, but the driver was going to lunch – we could go with him or wait an hour for his return. We chose to wait and witnessed an arrest by local constabulary, while listening to a street violinist. Our shuttle driver returned at the appointed time and took Julie back to the boat. He dropped me at the local marine store and came back an hour later to pick me up. Of course, this time was his break. He was a retired guy driving the free shuttle part time and a very affable character. He had moved up to Newport from Southern California in the mid 70’s; tried his hand at fishing for a couple of years and went broke. He then signed on the State transportation department and retired with them after 26 years. I finally arrived at the marina about 1730 after a fairly thorough bus ride of Newport. Applied Epoxy I bought at the Englunds marine store to seal the Anchor locker leak. If this doesn’t work, I’ll pack that thing so full of fiberglass … nothing short of a nuclear blast will penetrate it!

Thursday, August 9, 2007 – 0710 – Depart Newport after filling up with 37 gallons of diesel ($106) – looks like I’m burning about ¾ gallon/hour running at about 1800 RPM. The max RPM is 2600 and a diesel is supposed to be run at about 75-80% on max, which would be between 1950 and 2080 RPM. I’ll run at 200 RPM this tank and see if it makes a difference. The tank holds 44 gallons, but the gauge said it was empty. I don’t think the gauge goes all the way to the bottom of the tank, which is probably just as well (I probably shouldn’t depend on the gauge anyway, but it gives me redundancy). Clear skies, seas 4-5 foot NW swells. Motored most of the way, but about noon tried some sailing. Wind was too close on the nose for a good bearing, so we bagged it and motored on as we had a long passage to make.
1930 - Enter Coos Bay. 84 miles made good. Docked at Charleston (18 miles downriver from Coos Bay and right at the channel entrance); shallow harbor, but adequate space to tie off. No reciprocals, but only $13/night. Met our fellow Baja’ers from Tillamook and met a third set of Baja-ers. A couple (Hunter 45) that have lived aboard for 20 years and both just recently retired on their way to do the Baja … and points beyond. Both the Waquiz and the Hunter are more spacious than ours, but I wouldn’t trade ‘em. Like life, all boats are a compromise - find the one that fits best with you.

Friday and Saturday, August 10-11, 2007 – Lay days in Charleston. Walked into town – what there was of it; two general stores, a Laundromat and several gift shops. Julie bought fresh blueberries by the cup and I bought a fifth of Gin. We did laundry and found free wi-fi (Starbucks has nothing on Laundromats when it comes to wi-fi). We went to a local marine store, (Englunds) and I read in a NOAA publication there that La Push could only be entered by skiff; oh well. I updated our web site, caulked half the toe rail on the starboard side and Julie started on the steering wheel cover. NO anchor locker leakage. I may fiberglass/epoxy it anyway, just on account o’. Since Westport, all of the ports have been major fishing towns. Not only charter, but commercial fishing. They all have had multiple canning and processing plants (can ya smell it now?). I think Charleston is the home of “Charlie the Tuna.” (I failed to ask, but we did see his bust and sculptures all over the place). The guest dock is also the fishing pier. From early in the morning (6’sih) till late ate night (11’ish) folks are on the dock crabbing or fishing (old, young, infirmed, tourist, male and female). Hour after hour you can see them throw their crab pots in, haul ‘em out and throw them in again … hope springs eternal and they are happy as clams quite intent on getting their catch. I can’t begin to describe the type of boats being used for fishing. Everything from the huge commercial fishing vessels to 18’ speedboats retrofitted with home made cabins, stabilizers and fishing gear. Imagine an 18’ ski boat with 25 foot steel stabilizers port and starboard amidships and a trawl reel bolted where an otherwise 24 year old in a bikini would sit. It really has to be seen. The boats are made of wood glass, steel, aluminum and cement and any combination thereof). The names and hailing ports are all painted on by hand, as are the hulls hand painted with whatever color … colors … are available. These are working boats, not showboats, and they mean business. They really are a colorful assortment, salty to the core with crews equally as … salty. All the people that we encountered, were as friendly and helpful as anyone you would find anywhere. Charleston is ultimately, absolutely a charming seaport town. I filled the port tank with water and we crawled into the v-berth with the crabbers still intently going about their tasks. God bless them all.

Sunday, August 12, 2007 – 0635 – Depart Charleston at low tide with the ebb. Skies clear, seas calm with swells NW at 1-3 feet. Course due south for Crescent City, CA (115 miles). Julie tried a new herbal seasick ointment and it seems to be working. 0800 hailed Cok Chubuk about 3 miles off our stern, just west of Cape Arago. 1100 – Scot Free hailed us and asked if we could see him on our radar; the fog was starting to set in. 1300 – 3nm off Cape Blanco, Cok Chubuk hails the CG with a emergency. He is taking on water. We reverse course, notify the CG and are requested to assist. The fog is thick with maybe 500 yards visibility. I can’t understand Cok Chubuks coordinates (over the VHF) but I go on my last visual sighting of him, estimate his position and the radar blip. The CG advises Cok Chubuk to return to Charleston. They launch a helicopter and a 40’ rescue boat. Over the next hour Cok Chubuk is able to drain the bilge and finds no water coming in. He thinks a water tank may have ruptured (he filled in Charleston). We are still unable to find him and with all the chatter on the radio between the CG and Cok Chubuk I thought it inappropriate to interrupt. We arrive at what I thought was Cok Chubuks position only to find a fishing boat slowly trawling along; the skipper on the fantail bringing in his lines. Visibility is now 200 yards or less and we were nearly on top of the trawler before we saw him (he surely never saw us). The CG helicopter arrives at Cok Chubuk position, but they are unable to visually locate each other. The helo flies overhead and then along the starboard side before they finally make visual contact. The CG notifies me of Cok Chubuks current position; I mark it on the chartplotter and find we are about 10nm (1 ½ hours) south of him. The crises has passed, Cok Chubuk is headed back to Charleston, The CG rescue boat is within about 30 minutes of him and the CG helicopter is standing-by overhead. I request and receive permission to be relieved and resume my course. 1700 - Fog beginning to clear and we have some sunshine. 22miles off Brookings, OR and 37nm from out destination of Crescent City, CA. 2030 – Course now due east for Brookings a narrow shallow port with big rocks all around it. Sunset now and thick fog rolling in; visibility 100’ or less; winds calm; seas calm; 1-3 feet swells from the NW (“… you have just entered the Twilight Zone”). 2100 – We approach the outer channel buoy, a bright white light, dead on (thanks to the chart plotter). I round the buoy on the south side and make my course for the red buoy. Visibility is zip! I move ahead dead slow and with extreme caution. I approach the red buoy (dead on again). A few blind minutes later we see the green channel marker entrance and the fog begins to clear; we could see the harbor lights; our depth was 9’ (Itchen draws 5’). 2145- Mid channel Brookings, the CG hails us requesting vessel information, hailing port, destination and had we ever been boarded by the CG (they could’ve picked a better time to chat).
2200 - docked safely at Brooking along the fishing peer. Moorage $18/no reciprocals. A helluva day at sea.

Monday, August 13, 2007 – 1115 – Depart Brookings; a decidedly unfriendly town. We could find nothing of interest there; Crescent City is a short hop away so we head south. Clear, sunny skies and calm seas. Motored around Seal Rock light house and headed ESE toward Crescent City, CA. Crossed the line into CA about 1300. I think we’re out of the NW, but probably not till Cape Mendocino. Lots of sea life activity; whales breaching, seals peaking up through the water and birds of all sorts. Pelicans are very regal (even if they look like pterodactyls or whatever those flying dinosaurs were). Pelicans fly in a very tight formation often only inches above the water. They remind me of me stuffy bankers going to a board meeting; all business; no looking left or right; they rise or turn only to avoid and inconvenient obstacle and then back to the deck; the formation never changing in relative position to each other. They flap their wings once or twice and then glide effortlessly for the next 20 or 30 seconds. Single pelicans fly in much the same manner (just off the deck) but rising only to plunge, head long, into the water with a great splash. Ducks and Geese seem to land in sort of a controlled crash; feet in front of them, wings spread wide landing at full speed; splash, bump and they’re in. Seagull’s dip in … very gently seemingly forgetting why they landed, then just as quickly, they ascend as gently out of the water as they took to it. Quite elegant really, if it weren’t for the incessant squawking, total lack of formations or organization of any sort, and random, jerky flight patterns either dodging each other or over flying an intended target. Finally, there are these little white-bellied birds … small birds. They seem to be the most plentiful. They have a devil of a time getting off the water. As the boat approaches they swim furiously to get of the way throwing a disgusted look over one wing or another at the gaudy, rude intruder. Those that don’t plan their escape appropriately spread their little wings, flapping mightily, beating what little air they can engulf into submission. This just barely gets their bellies off the water and with their feet and wings moving in unison they give the appearance of running across the water. Not quite able to generate quite enough lift to get airborne. There are no smug looks from these fellows – they are just fleeing for their lives.
1500 - Just off Crescent City harbor entrance and the CG cutter is out patrolling. A CG RIB pulls up alongside and requests us to throttle back. I comply and they ask if we’ve ever been boarded by the CG. We say “no” and POP, just like that our virginity is gone. Two petty officers board us while two remain in the RIB. They request our identification, boat documentation and do a preliminary safety inspection (two fire extinguishers; day and night flares; throwable life cushion and CG approved life jackets) while one of the RIB petty officers enters our identifying information into his palm pilot. The boarding was done very politely and professionally, even if the RIB driver kept ramming the boat at one point almost taking off my windvane). The whole thing took about 30 minutes.
1530 – docked at Crescent City harbor. The channel is very shallow and twisty (at one point, I had 0.0 feet below the keel) and the marina is kind of ram shackled. A local live aboard told me “… the harbor was hit by tsunami last November, that caused a 6 foot swell, which took out all the docks.” We walked into town for supplies and found a thrift store on the way. Supped a McDonalds and marketed at Grocery Outlet. No reciprocals; moorage $17/night. Harbor Security (Jack) was very congenial though; around 2200 he opened the shower (which was free) and gave us a ride up there. Julie went to the local hotel and used(hacked) their wi-fi.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007 – Depart Crescent City in very skinny water; foggy, seas calm, swells 1-3’ NW. Course 180 degrees for Eureka, CA (Humboldt Bay). Remained foggy/overcast the entire trip. Surprising little activity on the ocean today; spotted less than five boats and no sea life with the exception of the birds. It was a lonely ride.
1725 – enter Humboldt Channel entrance against an ebb tide; well marked, wide and very long. A local at Crescent City (who had lived in Eureka) told us about the two marinas here. “The City Marina was newer (built in 2000), gated but in a rougher part of town. The people were very friendly though and would most likely provide you with an extra gate key should you arrive after hours. Woodly Island Marina (the other marina), farther up the channel, is old and rickety.”
1825 – Docked at City Marina. After an hour of motoring up the channel, in a thick fog, we rounded the corner into City Marina. The first finger of docks we pulled into didn’t have a large enough slip for us, but as we were told, a couple of locals were there to help; a lady (Connie) told us where to find a spot and a fellow (Tracy) came over to help tie us off. After tying off, Connie returned to her boat and provided us with a key for the gate and transient facilities (head, showers, laundry). A little later, walking up the dock into town, another lady (Kathleen the SO of Tracy) asked if we wanted a ride into town. We declined, as we needed to stretch our legs. She gave us the general layout some simple directions and one final “… are you sure you don’t need a ride? I’m going up to get pizza.” The City dock is not in a “bad part of town.” The streets are improved and well lit. It is industrial with pulp mills and canaries, but within about ¾ mile we had found several fast food and upscale restaurants, a cinema, post office, Costco and two grocery stores. We returned to the boat after about two hours of walking around and found we had free wi-fi, to boot. No wonder they call this town – Eureka!
Last week, Julie put us on a list as needing additional crew for the Baja, without telling me. So far we’ve had about seven inquires; a couple our age from WI; a 30-ish couple from the Bay area; four single guys who left voice mails and a single gal who has her boat down in Mexico and has been working on the Victoria fast ferry out of Seattle. We’ll need to sort through them quickly, as I can’t handle all of the messages. It’s midnight, foggy, but calm. Julie is in the rack and I’m bushed. The barometer is 29 and holding and the National Weather Service synopsis forecast for Northern California waters from Pt. Saint George to Pt. Arena and 60 nm out is “… a nearly stationary upper low offshore of the Pacific NW will maintain light winds over the waters. As the upper low moves further in late in the week...surface high pressure SW of the area will briefly strengthen...bringing increasing north winds over the waters South of Cape Mendocino Friday into Saturday.