Tuesday - January 8, 2008
Mazatlan – Installed new Airhead (piece ‘a cake – took about 3 minutes). Julie goes into town … old town … every two or three days for provisions. Old town, as its name implies is the oldest part of Mazatlan (perhaps 500 years old), and is a melee of narrow, dusty, cobblestone streets choked with the exhaust of busses, cars, delivery trucks, taxi’s and pulmonias. The narrow, steep, sidewalks are filled with merchandise overflowing from humble storefronts, which are little barrier to the hustling workers, casual shoppers and tourists that mill along. Viewed from above one sees a turmoil … a conglomeration … of foot and vehicle traffic stuttering along in a multitude of directions; sometimes the confusion gives over and a distinct flow can be seen, but it only last a short time before it is swallowed by the larger whole and chaos reigns again. Julie makes her way through this mayhem into the warehouses of well-used cubicles, stalls, vestibules and corridors of the market in search of our daily bread. She prefers the honesty, simplicity and directness of the old market to the clean, organized and efficient supermercados like Soriana’s , Gigante, Mega and Wal-Mart. She has found her favorite vendors and affectionately refers to them as her meat man, chicken man and/or vegetable lady. She makes them speak Spanish to her so she can learn the language; they look forward to her visits and enjoy teaching her about their culture. Recently, she found out about the shrimp ladies; a group of ladies (supposedly fisherman’s widows) who sell the daily catch at heavily discounted prices.
Wednesday – January 9, 2008
Boat hauled out at Singlar Marina for engine, transmission and shaft replacement; steel rail installation; roller furling installation and bottom paint. The work could’ve been done at the dock (all except the shaft tube) as the engine was taken out there, but fisherman caught an 80 lb. Marlin; eight of the fisherman were carrying the fish over the docks gangway when it broke, so the marina forbid anymore heavy work on the docks. Quite a social place the boat yard is. We spent three hours trying not to talk to fellow yard birds; the first yard bird (STAR DANCER) talked about boats in general (he had his custom built in San Francisco); the second yard bird (TEXAS) was from Yellow knife, Northwest Territories, Canada; he had just purchased a boat in Mazatlan (he already had another in Yellow Knife) and was having work from the survey completed on it. He was quite a character ... chatty and interested in porta-boats. The last yard bird had Hunter 44 and talked with us about driving to and from the States, around Mexico and where to go in Mazatlan.
Thursday – January 10, 2008
Workers started on steel rails; cutting off the tips of the stanchions where the lifelines currently run; they also need to fabricate two new stanchions for gates on either side of the vessel amidships. Another set of workers are busily grinding off the layers and layers of bottom paint (no EPA down here); the dust is flying everywhere and makes quite a mess. After the bottom is sanded (to the gel coat) they’ll put on two layers of an epoxy barrier coat and two layers of bottom paint.
Friday – January 11, 2008
Drove to Puerto Vallarta (PV) to see JAKE and deliver supplies to SAUCY LADY. Again, we missed the cuota, or toll road (actually, we hadn’t figured out what cuota meant) and it took us eight hours as opposed to five. Met up with JAKE about 2000 in a little town called La Cruz (famous among cruising folks for the restaurant Philo’s). Just as we met with JAKE in the town plaza, using VHF’s, PEPE called in. They had just arrived, by boat into the La Cruz anchorage. JAKE and we had dinner (the best 90 cent taco’s around) and arranged to meet PEPE in the morning for breakfast at Anna Banana’s. Dinghy out to JAKE, which is anchored in La Cruz harbor. La Cruz harbor is on the north side of Bandera’s Bay. Bandera’s Bay (Bay of Flags) is 20 miles across and about as long (over 60 miles of coastline); it is considered one of the deepest bays in the world. The circumference of the bay is dotted with villages. Nuevo Vallarta and Puerto Vallarta (two fairly large cities) are at the base of the bay. La Cruz is a dusty dirty, yet somewhat cosmopolitan little village; it has Philo’s, British and German restaurants as well as the open air, better quality Mexican restaurants; it has a bus stop for busses that regularly go into PV and a bakery that would compare with any upscale bakery in the U.S. But still is has dusty (some cobblestone) roads, trash of all sorts askew, buildings in disrepair with the cement cracking and falling off, and incomplete construction that was halted who knows how long ago. La Cruz has a brand spanking new marina but, it is more expensive than the marinas in PV, it is dusty and inconvenient to town (one must walk about a mile, circumnavigating the marina, on a dirt construction road to get into the town square) and unfriendly (the marina charges $10 US to tie your dinghy up, not per day for a one time use!). Consequently, the anchorage (open to the pacific swells and quite rolly) is full of boats with the cruisers beaching their dinghies on the sandy shore closer to town while the brand new shiny marina sits empty. Go figure!
Saturday – January 12, 2008
La Cruz – Breakfast with JAKE, PEPE and LA SIRENA (42’ Chapelle, gaff rigged, wood schooner) at Anna Banana’s. JAKE, PEPE and us drove into Puerto Vallarta (about 20 miles); went to the marina, marine store and Mega (big department and grocery store combination). Had lunch at a roadside BBQ (grilled chicken and beef – pollo asado and carne asado) and beer! Back to La Cruz, where we made a quick stop to get JAKE a birthday cake. They don’t have birthday cakes in Mexico, in fact one is hard pressed to find cakes at all. They have lots of breads and rolls and donut like things, but no cakes … or cake mixes. After a brief, and discreet, run around La Cruz I was able to find four little chocolate mousse-tort ramekin sized cakes to celebrate JAKE’s birthday. We smuggled the contraband back to the boat, via dinghy. Jake, Jeff (PEPE) and I went to Philo’s to watch the NFC playoff game. After the game we dinghied out to get the girls for dinner at the worlds best 90-cent Taco stand.
Sunday - January 13, 2008
JAKE dropped us off at the La Cruz marina. We drove back down to PV to deliver SAUCY LADY supplies and had a nice visit with them. Line handle for PEPE as he came into PV marina. Drive back to Mazatlan using the cuota and save about two hours (tolls were $20 though).
Monday – Wednesday, January 14-16, 2008
Mazatlan – still on hard; bottom work done as well as rails with gates. Help COK CABUK with anchor/rode attachment. To GRACE (44’ Peterson), another yard bird, for rum and olives.
Thursday – Monday, January 17 - 21, 2008
Drove back to Phoenix for the remainder of gear and porta-boat (dinghy). The drive thru Mexico is very pleasant. As I mentioned, the roads are in good shape, it cost about $60 in tolls and there are numerous checkpoints (either for fruit and vegetables or the more serious one’s for drugs or other contraband). We generally passed through the checkpoints hardly stopping at all. Driving, we were struck by the wealth of the Mexican countryside. Mexico has vast amount of farming and agriculture, beautiful weather, 2 coasts in the sub tropical and tropical latitudes and other natural resources. Yet the culture has no concept of a future. The general populace keeps below the radar of the government and the government is unable to instill any confidence in its ability to nurture and protect the country. How is it that a country with so much abundance is unable to get a part on the world stage?
We were able to pick up a porta boat … actually two. I bought one from an RV salesman and it turned out to be too long (12’). Julie immediately put it on Craigslist and we sold it for $300 more than we paid for it and owned it for only 2 days (long live Craigslist!). We then found an eight footer and strapped that and the whisker pole onto the roof of the car and stuffed the remaining gear into the car (a little Escort wagon we had purchased from COK CABUK in San Diego, in September, that I was going to give to Tim,( but he didn’t want it) and set out for Mazatlan, again. Zoomed across the border, got the green light and voila we were in Mazatlan 17 hours after pulling out of my mothers drive way in Sun City.
Tuesday – Wednesday, January 22 –30, 2008
Mazatlan – Remain on the hard (in the yard) while the new drive shaft is fabricated; the hull is waxed and touch up paint applied to the boot and shear stripes. Julie made fender covers and we had Bob and Raphael (Total Yacht Works) and Gary (COK CABUK) over for dinner. I played a little with the whisker pole. The whisker pole is a long pole that attaches to the front of the mast and the back (clew) of the headsail; when attached it holds the headsail out (while sailing downwind) to stop it from back winding on itself. The problem with buying new gear are the “begets” (a JAKE term – one change begets another). For example, I bought the whisker pole in the US; that purchase begat the problem of its transportation to Mazatlan via Phoenix, using a vehicle that was poorly designed for this task. The successful transportation of the pole to Mazatlan begat the problem of connecting it to the mast (as no pad-eye, or tract exists on the mast in which to hook the pole); the pole (12 feet long collapsed, 18 feet extended) is not used constantly so when not in use begets the problem of stowage. The pole is straight and I don’t have a straight line on my boat, except up the mast; stowage on the mast begets drilling holes; drilling holes in the mast begets the problem of shorting out electrical wires that are inside the mast … you get the idea. I did not arrive at a solution on how to stow a whisker pole (when not in use) that has no mast attachment point (when in use), which made a hazardous trip to Mazatlan, on a vehicle that was poorly designed to transport it.
Thursday – January 31, 2008
Mazatlan – Boat Splash – first time ITCHEN has been under her own power since November 8, 2007 (30 miles off Cabo San Lucas); minor celebration with champagne - BEYOND REASON and COK CABUK in attendance. Motored to slip at Singlar Marina where work will continue.
Friday – Saturday, February 1-2, 2008
Went to Carnival with HARRIER (42 Spencer), WINDWARD BOUND (43 Columbia) and BEYOND REASON 43 Hans Christian); second largest carnival (behind RIO) in the world. Throngs of people along the malecon … a real mob scene. Bands … many bands … loud bands playing separated by only several hundred yards. For those of you not familiar with Mexican music, it has kind of a polka rhythm and lots of brass horns … trumpets especially, played at full volume! It makes for a real cacophony of sound; lots of street vendors with food, souvenirs and other wares. Huge display of fireworks on the beach; we stood within about 20 feet of the display and had a hailstorm of firework debris (flaming and hot) land on our heads. Julie had a firing pin land in her hair.
Sunday- February 3, 2008
Downtown for dinner at the Aqua Marine hotel with COK CABUK. Huge carnival parade going for miles and miles. Lots of very ornate and creative floats; Pacifico Beer, Sea Urchins, Egyptian Gods, Castles, Children’s Choir, Pirates, etc … it really seemed like an endless line. All of the Mazatlan parade queens had their own special floats; the earliest queen we saw was from the late 50’s. It was unseasonably cool and I was a little sick, so we left early.
Tuesday –Thursday, February 5-7, 2008
Installed roller furling and sold inflatable dinghy, porta-boat I had just bought in Phoenix, and my new outboard I had bought in San Diego. ITCHEN came with a fatty knees (hard) dinghy and aft lifting davits for it; outfitting the ITCHEN for offshore eliminated the lifting davits and the hard dinghy wouldn’t fit on the bow (because of the club-footed cutter); this begat the dinghy deliriums. I initially bought an inflatable dinghy in Seattle; before we even cast off I bought a porta-boat as well (I think because I was smitten with them and they seemed so practical what with there collapsibility and positive flotation). I left the inflatable behind when we departed Seattle and didn’t really use the porta-boat except once in Morrow Bay where I burned up the little 2hp outboard engine that also came with ITCHEN. In San Diego I purchased a new 3.5 hp outboard, reclaimed the inflatable and sold the porta-boat (disillusioned with it’s appearance and stowage difficulties). We happily used the inflatable (with the new outboard) around San Diego bay, but it was slow, wet and plowed through the water (which will be a factor later on) and we sold the porta boat without giving it a second chance. We completed the Baja, in which we’ve launched and recovered the inflatable several times, went through huge breakers (at Turtle Bay) wishing only to have a little more power, used it to propel ITCHEN about in her time of crises and used it to commute here in Mazatlan. With the exception of the soft bottom, the inflatable was excellent.
In Cabo, during a period of weakness and envy, I lusted after PEPE sporting about in his 10-foot porta-boat. He had a little bimini, handsome and rugged in his safari hat, pretty young wife and toe headed little girl very properly (and obediently) sitting on the porta boats middle bench … what a cute picture. His porta boat handled like a dream (of course it was longer and he had a larger engine); the boat skittered across the water barely touching wave tops and absolutely turned in place. I was impressed, smitten and determined to get another porta-boat. TG WAZOO heard of this and immediately put his bid in for the inflatable. TEXAS hunted me down (he was out of the yard by now) and wanted to buy my porta-boat. ITCHEN was still in the yard as he marched over that morning, hailed us and climbed up the ladder and came aboard. We sat there and talked, like a couple of farmers, and I had the feeling bargaining was not new to him. It took him several attempts, but he finally got through to me that he wanted to buy my porta boat and outboard. He was in a hurry to get going and offered me the price it would cost me to replace the porta boat and engine, in Mexico (about $3500). I didn’t really want to make the deal, but he was so anxious and fairly persuasive, I relented. The total dinghy count is five and still rising (fatty knees, inflatable and three porta boats) and we have none. Serendipitously, we did make about $1300 buying and selling dinghies. We start searching Craigslist and Ebay for porta boats and find lots of 12footers but no eight or ten footers.
Friday – Monday, February 8 – 11, 2008
We drive back up to Phoenix, where I purchase a brand new eight-foot porta boat and new 3.5 hp Nissan outboard from the porta boat dealer at the Phoenix Boat Show. Back to Mazatlan, put it together, take it out for a spin and I’m happy!
Tuesday – Wednesday, February 12-13, 2008
Pick up COK CABUK crew at airport and have them over for dinner; got to COK CABUK for dinner and out to Brooha’ for lunch.
Thursday – February 14, 2008
Mazatlan – 1300 - Cast off COK CABUK for the last time. COK is headed to La Paz and a short cruise in the Sea of Cortez, and then it’ll be put on Dockwise (a transport freighter that hauls personal yachts around the world) for the trip back to Nanaimo, Canada. COK will be launched into he frigid waters of the northwest where it’ll make its twilight cruise to Seattle and be put it up for sale.
Gary, the master of COK CABUK is a retired Navy Commander that celebrated his 70th birthday in November. He was the first Baja’er we met coming down; you might remember COK CABUK had a series of unfortunate incidents off the Oregon coast; I remind you of this only as testament to Gary’s’ determination. We first met Gary in Tillamook Bay, Garibaldi, Oregon and shared berths with him in Half Moon Bay, Moro Bay, Santa Barbara and San Diego; we came down on the Baja ha-ha together and I crewed for him coming across the Sea of Cortez. Each step of the way he had to find crew or single hand, either way is not easy. He loaned us his car, a lot, in San Diego and we bought it from him. We ate and drank together through 25 degrees and 3000 minutes of latitude and over 2300 sea miles. Gary’s goal was to get down to Mexico and cruise, which he did. He didn’t get to all the ports he wanted too, but he did get in some quality sailing and he found those special gunk holes. It’s always tough to swallow the hook, but I think he’s happy with his decision. It is true the sea is a jealous mistress, but Gary has his bride Betsy of over 50 years, his children and grand children and brand new house waiting for him in Oregon. May he always have fair winds and following seas.
Friday – Sunday, February 15-17, 2008
I installed a new galley floor; the old one was rotten and I had meant to replace it in Seattle, but it never got to the top of the list, and fought with the cushions, removing the old patchwork foam and installing the brand new high-density foam. Julie repaired sails and made shade canopy’s (huge awnings that attached to the boat with fiberglass tent poles; when in place they give the boat the appearance of a Conestoga wagon … the old prairie schooners (aren’t I clever ha, ha). Her little Kenmore sewing machine finally lost it’s timing. We borrowed three from Bob; a Pfaff with a walking foot, and a SailRight that only sewed a straight stitch, both of which were rusted shut and a brand new Brother sewing machine. The heavy sail material soon proved too much for the Brother. We were referred to a local sewing machine repairman and loaded all four machines into the car and set out to find his establishment (which is always an adventure). After only a few wrong turns, asking directions once, and thanks to Julie’s local knowledge of Mazatlan, we found it. The repair shop was, literally, a hole in the wall and we drove by it, and then walked by it before we discovered it. The proprietor spoke very little English and we spoke even less Spanish, despite that and with some clever charades he was able to figure out what we needed; he gave a pensive, somber look and told to us to come back tomorrow and the machines would be repaired … the cost would be $45! I couldn’t help but contrast that to a Pfaff (an Ebay purchase prior to casting off) we had taken in for a tune up in Seattle; it took that guy a month and cost a hundred dollars (and I don’t think anything was wrong with it). We returned the next day and all four machines were repaired and in working order (he had even made a new pulley belt out of leather for one of the machines). We paid him $60 and he sent us on our way with a full guarantee of his work. We put the Brother and SailRight back in the bodega and used the Pfaff to finish mending a huge headsail and mainsail off MARIANNE (a Peterson 44’). The Pfaff did go out of time again; we took it back and 24 hours later it was fixed for good. The repairman refused any payment (what a guy … what a guy), but I bought him a big bottle of beer (it was a hot day) and gave him $20. Julie has quite a little sewing business going … Bob pointed out to us that we were “illegals in Mexico” by making all of this money.
Monday – February 18, 2008
HARRIER over for dinner and movie. We went to Dominos and bought two super grande meat lovers pizza’s and watched a double feature (DVD’s) in the cruisers lounge on the big TV. It was the night of the total eclipse and we had a great view from the second story of Singlar Marina.
Singlar Marina Mazatlan is the first step in marinas esplanade (escalator). Singlar is a government corporation that is building a series of marinas up the coast of Mexico (like and escalator) for cruising sailors. The furthest marina south is Mazatlan; then across the sea to La Paz; north (on the sea) to Escondido; half way up the inside of the peninsula is Santa Rosalia; furthest north on the peninsula is San Felipe; back across the sea to the mainland and the furthest Singlar north is Puerto Penasco. There are three other marinas on the mainland scheduled for completion at Guaymas, Topolobampo and San Blas. They’re all cookie cutters regarding services and appearance (like McDonalds) and by far the cleanest and most modern of any of the marinas we’ve been to in Mexico. The marinas have all the basic services (fuel, water, electricity, laundry and showers) and a good deal more including restaurants, bars, swimming pools, hot tubs, medical and haul out facilities. The staff is very friendly and most accommodating.
Tuesday – February 19, 2008
Installed the outboard lifting davit. Bob and Raphael for dinner.
Wednesday – February 20, 2008
Late afternoon the water behind the boat started to ripple and becomes furious with fish very near the surface – hundreds of them – right off the back of ITCHEN. Mazatlan harbor has always been busy with fish – at any given time two or five fish will be jumping out of the water, making a noisy splash when they re-enter; but this … this was extraordinary. There were so many fish concentrated in one area, all vying for the same thing (food I imagine), that the usually flat bay looked more like a fast moving creek. The fish were so absorbed in there activity, they forgot about there own safety though. Pelicans began to gather and in their conservative manner taking turns softly landing amid the fracas, peering thoughtfully into the water and then dipping their beaks in to capture the fish of their choice; much like a businessman’s buffet luncheon. The pelicans didn’t overeat as each only took one fish, hopped over to shore as if moving to a dining table where they digested the catch of the day and then rested. A few pelicans had trouble getting their fish swallowed; took too big-of-a-mouthful they did. Patiently however, they stood craning their necks … swallowing … adjusting … swallowing; one could see the fish squirm (“this isn’t Kansas Todo”) full in sac beneath the pelican’s beak. Sometimes the fish was a little too big and his tail would stick out of the pelicans beak, or it caught on a flap of the pelicans sac and grossly distorted it; … it must’ve really sucked to have been the fish. All things considered, the whole affair was rather dignified. I’m sure the pelicans retired (out of sight) for cigars and brandy.
Wednesday – Friday, February 21 – March 7, 2008
Continue outfitting the boat and putting the required 50 break-in hours on the engine. Bob and Raph over for dinner several more times and they took us out for a very nice dinner. Eating out is not the same experience as it is in the States (not that anyone has ever called me a dining critic), but the selection of restaurants is as limited as the cuisine (everything is Mexican fare, or at least with a Mexican bent). The pork is good, Italian, German, Polish and breakfast sausage is not to be found and the beef is tough. Everything comes with either corn or flour tortillas. There are a few mid-grade chain restaurants (Chilis, Applebees and Outback) and of course the fast food carriers McDonalds, Burger King and Domino’s. Julie is still doing sewing repairs for other cruisers; sail bags, lifting straps and covers for the outboards and bug screens for hatches.
All told for the three plus months in Mazatlan, in addition to the three trips to the States, we’ve purchased, installed, repaired or fabricated; a new engine, transmission, prop-shaft and mounts; new bottom paint with epoxy barrier coat; hull waxing and boot/shear stripe painting; deck teak staining; a new mainsail and headsail; roller furling, mainsheet traveler and whisker pole; double steel safety rails with gates, mast pulpits and dinghy lifting davit; a new VHF with command mic and extended range antenna for wi-fi; a new outboard and dinghy (and sold two); new high density foam for all cushions throughout the boat, galley floor, 12 volt refrigerator/freezer and airhead; stowage locker (beneath the oven); new leather steering wheel cover, fender covers and shade canopy; Julie has made about $600 doing numerous sail and canvas repairs for other cruisers; and oh, we traded (straight across) my little cheap-o-folding bike for a full size (much more valuable) full sized folding bike.
Final preparation for getting underway – dinghy hauled and cleaned; bikes stowed, tanks filled, engine checked; cutter hanked on and car keys to Bob.
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